Who Cares About the Price of Cotton?

Source for domestic pricing: USDA Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS), Source for imported pricing: Cotlook LTD, A Index.

The first interesting thing to note about the price of cotton is that it is trending down, both globally and domestically. Why? Basic economics. Supply and demand. The demand for new textiles has been sluggish worldwide because of slow economic growth and people just not spending as much. That means a surplus of raw materials…hence, prices are lowered.

The next thing to notice is the cost difference between imported and domestic raw cotton. A lot of this is easily explained by the “price” being monitored including freight and shipping. So domestic cotton will always appear cheaper.

But another factor weighing into the mix is that Brazil has overtaken the US as the leading global exporter of cotton. Here’s an excerpt from from southernagtoday.org:

In 2016, U.S. cotton exports captured 39% of the global market, but this share has steadily declined since the onset of trade disputes with China. By 2023, the U.S. share in the global cotton market had fallen to 26%, its lowest point in over a decade. Although it rebounded slightly to 28% in 2024 and 2025, U.S. cotton has faced rising competitive pressures, particularly from Brazil.  Brazil’s ability to double-crop cotton with other crops has driven substantial growth in its cotton production and exports. Consequently, Brazil has rapidly expanded its role in the global cotton market, surpassing U.S. cotton export volumes by 2023 and becoming the world’s leading cotton exporter. This shift is closely tied to China’s strategic diversification away from U.S. cotton, with Chinese investment in Brazilian infrastructure improving logistics, port access, and overall competitiveness.

southernagtoday.org

Once again, it means the US is faced with those stubborn economic principles. Lower demand on the global stage means lower prices.

Now, you may ask, what does all this have to do with me? If the prices of the raw materials are going down, shouldn’t the price of my quilt cotton be going down?

The problem is that very little US cotton stays here to be processed and used as fabric. It is exported to mills in Viet Nam and South Korea (which by the way is where 80-90% of quilt shop fabric is manufactured).

When the fabric is finished, it gets re-imported back into the US and tariffs are imposed. It doesn’t matter that the raw material started in the US.

So, I just want to be clear. We grow the cotton here in the US, we are making less and less on the exported farming sales. When it is imported again, we pay the tariffs and those increasing costs are passed down to the consumer.

To reiterate, the US makes less money selling the cotton, and pays more to use the final product. That is the way the system has been designed. This year.

These are the facts.

I don’t know what that means for each individual consumer. You may need to assess your priorities. Me, I will be using my stash as much as possible and supporting my local shops as much as I can. I also plan to monitor the price of quilt cotton around the country over the next year.

When I became a quilter, we were buying fabric all the time–shop-hopping our way to every place we could find. That’s not how the next generations approach this craft. They are re-purposing, mending, re-using, and scrapping. Things are changing. Supply and demand.

It’s important to understand the dynamics at play here. That doesn’t mean any pricing will self-correct over time. In fact it is likely to get far worse before it gets better.

Garment Sewing Mania

So, as you know, I’ve been sewing a lot of t-shirts for fun. I’ve basically created my own casual wardrobe this year…but only of shirts. I balance it out with a lot of stretchy pants I already own.

It’s not ideal, but it’s the thing I’m loving right now. Especially since I’m not going out and purchasing new clothes. These days I get excited when a new shipment of fabric comes in.

My next effort? A pair of stretchy pants. I know. I should aim a little higher. But I’ve never made a pair of pants. Seriously. And I’m not about to start with a pair of jeans which would be a tremendous amount of effort and I have no idea where my weaknesses are.

Well, OK, I know that I sit on my biggest weakness, but that doesn’t mean I know how to fit it. So I’m starting with something forgiving. I’ll let you know how it goes.(I’m not terribly optimistic.)

But just to give you a bit more information on my process: As many of you know, I have resolved to only purchase organic fabric for the foreseeable future. As time has gone on, I have only furthered my resolve in this area. The good news, is that the industry is slowly moving in that direction, since traditional cotton-growing is proving unsustainable to even the most stalwart purchasers. We’re talking about Levi’s and Lee and H&M and folks who are serious purchasers of cotton.

I wrote about organic cotton in detail here.

But another big concern of mine as I’ve been sewing, has been the amount of waste…fabric waste, that goes into garment sewing. Making a t-shirt requires the front and back of the pattern to be cut on the fold.

But that leaves a large amount of fabric untouched above the fold. Like half of it.

So I started something new. Of course I started editing the pattern. Instead of laying fabric on the fold, I placed it higher up on the fabric to make two pieces instead of one. I added a quarter inch to the area that would normally be placed on the fold to compensate for the additional seam allowance.

This gave me the ability to make a whole other shirt from leftover fabric. A few more seams, yes. But more clothes, yay! But what about the sleeves? What I found with the sleeves was that I often did not have enough width of my leftover fabric to accommodate the width of the sleeve pattern.

So I folded the pattern in half. I laid it out on the fabric and added the quarter inch seam allowance. I found that the slim line of the sleeve usually left me with enough fabric to make the sleeves with a seam. Instead of two pieces of sleeve fabric, I ended up with four pieces, two each per sleeve. One seam up the middle is barely noticeable.

These additional seams turned out to look structural on the garment. Before assembling, I gave them a topstitch over the side where the serger seam allowance rested. It holds the extra seam allowance in place perfectly, and adds a bit of interest. Voila!

I found that the looser tees left me with enough fabric to make a v-neck closer fitting tee, and the opposite was true of the cut of the v-necks.

Then I feel absolutely no guilt throwing away the remnants after that. they are just tiny bits and pieces.

Bit by agonizing bit, I’m learning about garment construction. And it’s only agonizing because I am not a perfect beautiful, lovely size. Well, actually, I am. But I’m just not what would be considered a model size. So I modify everything to fit in a comfortable way.

And I’m having fun playing with the absolute simplest of patterns. I invite you to try it. It’s fun, entertaining, creative, and most of all, utilitarian. It’s empowering.

Everyone, stay calm and sew on. These are crazy, unsteady times. Do something that steadies you.

(Pattern from Grainline studio. V-neck tee is my own pattern. Fabrics are from Hawthorne Supply Co., various lines, but all organic cotton interlock.)